Biking Barista
Ethics and Espresso in Victoria
Photography: Kathleen Hay
During one late afternoon rush, over the whirr of the grinding espresso machine, Ken calls out: “I don’t want to change the world by preaching to people, I want to change the world by doing things better than everybody else.”
Ken Gordon, owner of Street Level Espresso in Victoria, BC, keeps his ethics ‘rubber side down’ by picking up his milk, sugar, and coffee on his basket-laden road bike. When it comes to business ethics, the first thing one notices when talking to Gordon is that, for him, owning a business isn’t a question of profit versus ethics, or of convenience versus consumption: It’s a marriage of the two.
In Canada, transportation accounts for 67 per cent of small business greenhouse gas emissions, according to Ecotrust Canada. The coffee business is no exception. Most of Canada’s coffee comes from farms outside of North America.
Riding in the city with 54 pounds of coffee on his bike, Gordon may not be taking the easiest route. But this awkward ride around town is a small price to pay for Gordon, as it allows him to save on fuel and uphold his personal ‘low carbon footprint’ ethic.
Gordon satisfies his ecological and economical interests by using a bicycle to get as many supplies delivered to Street Level as he can. “Bicycles with baskets are the way of the future,” says Gordon. He adds that sustainable choices aren’t a huge undertaking of willpower or something overly deserving of praise and notoriety, they’re just the choices that make the most sense to him.

Ken Gordon totes supplies for his coffee shop on the back (and front) of his bike.Photograph by Kathleen Hay
Street Level Espresso, located just off the corner of Douglas and Fort streets in Victoria, has a streamlined, minimalist layout that complements Gordon’s engaging and dynamic nature.
Watching Gordon work is half of the pleasure of visiting Street Level, as friend after friend stops by, enjoying his wit, storytelling, and craftsmanship. Customers continue to arrive until well past the posted closing time – often traveling to the shop by bike. Among them is Brandon Thompson, who works at Oak Bay Bikes, a local and well-respected shop.
“It builds a sense of community,” says Thompson of Street Level Espresso. “You see couriers, fixies, BMXers all gathered here. … There’s a stigma that cyclists don’t spend money, so having people like Ken – who is in the bike community and is also established and credible – that normalizes it.”
Gordon has a ‘no bull’ approach to life that comes through in the way he does everything. Chatting about community and coffee over Thompson’s quick espresso shot, Gordon reveals exactly what kind of audience he deems deserving of his espresso. “I want to cater to the gastronome, people who won’t be inconvenienced by my ethics. I cater to the bike community.” Gordon proudly displays his bike in his store with a “Street Level Espresso” sign affixed to its front basket, which also serves as cycle-powered advertising for the shop.
Gordon’s coffee is some of the best in the city, which, coupled with his shop’s environmentally-friendly business ethic, makes it hard for even the most consumer-conscious customer to find fault with Street Level Espresso.
For more information, visit Street Level Espresso’s Facebook page: www.facebook.com/pages/Victoria-BC /Street-Level-Espresso.
About the Author
Published in Momentum No. 40
In this issue we look at all kinds of projects people have made themselves, we go on a tour of Montreal's bike culture and hear about a craft revival. We also review the Biria EB7 and the Yuba Mundo, see some big things being carried on bikes and learn to make wood fenders. And there's more! Learn why riding is a great way to get around when you're pregnant, learn how to maintain a lively advocacy organization and hear positive bike stories from cities around North America.


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